The History: The Tea of the Yellow Mountain
Huangshan Maofeng is one of China’s “Top Ten” teas, originating in the late 19th century during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty. It was created by a merchant named Xie Zhengan, who founded the famous “Xie Yuda” tea company.
The name “Maofeng” refers to the appearance of the tea: “Mao” means the white downy hairs that cover the tender buds, and “Feng” means “peak,” referring to the sharp, pointed shape of the processed leaves and the mountain peaks where they grow. It has been a mainstay of Chinese diplomatic gifts for decades.
Geography: The “Sea of Clouds”
The tea is grown in the Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) range in Anhui Province, a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its jagged granite peaks, ancient pine trees, and “sea of clouds.”
- Terroir: The tea gardens are situated between 700 and 800 meters. The high altitude and frequent fog protect the tea leaves from excessive sunlight, allowing them to retain more chlorophyll and amino acids.
- The Soil: The soil is derived from weathered granite and is rich in organic matter, which contributes to the tea’s clean, “mountain” flavor.
Decoding the Grades
Huangshan Maofeng is known for its “bird’s tongue” shape—a single bud with one or two tender leaves.
1. Harvest Timing
- Pre-Qingming (Ming Qian): The first and most valuable harvest. The leaves are tiny, extremely tender, and have the most delicate floral aroma.
- Pre-Rain (Yu Qian): Harvested in mid-April. The leaves are larger, and the flavor is more robust and “savory.”
2. Picking Standards
- Special Grade (Te Ji): Pure buds or one bud with one tiny leaf. The leaves should be uniform and a vibrant “ivory” green.
- Grades 1-3: Larger leaves, less downy hair, and a more pronounced vegetal/grassy profile.
How to Identify Quality
A good Maofeng should be fresh, sweet, and leave a “cool” feeling in the throat.
| Feature | High-Quality (Premium) | Lower-Quality (Mass Market) |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | “Bird’s tongue” shape; yellowish-green (ivory) with visible white downy hairs. | Dark green, broken, or “bald” (no hair); uneven size. |
| Aroma | Fresh orchid, sweet chestnut, and clean mountain air. | Grassy, flat, or stale. |
| Liquor | Pale apricot or light yellow-green; crystal clear. | Dull yellow or cloudy. |
| Taste | Sweet “Umami,” refreshing, with a long-lasting floral aftertaste. | Thin, astringent, or metallic. |
Reputable Brands & Where to Buy
Xie Yuda is the most famous historical brand, but many artisanal producers offer incredible quality.
Reputable Specialized Brands:
- Xie Yuda (谢裕大): The original founder’s brand, still a major producer of high-quality Maofeng.
- International-Friendly Online Shops:
- Teavivre: Offers several grades of Maofeng with reliable harvest information.
- Seven Cups: Known for sourcing directly from the core Huangshan production zones.
- Meimei Fine Teas: Excellent for curated, top-shelf spring harvests.
- The Tea Hong: Highly curated selections with a focus on traditional processing.
Huangshan Maofeng is the “classic” green tea—elegant, reliable, and deeply refreshing. To get the most out of its orchid fragrance, try brewing it in a glass or porcelain gaiwan with 80-85°C water.