The Culture: The “Aggressive” Fragrance
Rougui (literally “Cinnamon”) is the “powerhouse” of the Wuyi Rock Tea (Yancha) family. While Da Hong Pao is the “King,” Rougui is often called the “General” or the “Aromatic King” because of its bold, spicy, and long-lasting fragrance.
Originally discovered in the Majia Canyon of the Wuyi Mountains, Rougui has exploded in popularity over the last few decades. It is a tea for those who love intensity—it doesn’t hide its character. In the world of tea connoisseurs, there is a saying: “Fragrance doesn’t surpass Rougui, and water doesn’t surpass Shuixian.” This highlights Rougui’s undisputed dominance in aroma.
Geography: The “Baxian” and the Rock Rhyme
Rougui is grown in the UNESCO-listed Wuyi Mountains in Northern Fujian. The terroir is everything here.
- Zheng Yan (Authentic Rock): The core area. Rougui grown in places like Ma Tou Yan (Horse Head Rock) or Niu Lan Keng (Cow Pen Pit) is legendary. “Niu Rou” (Rougui from Niu Lan Keng) is one of the most expensive and sought-after teas in China.
- The Rock Rhyme (Yan Yun): The tea absorbs minerals from the sandstone cliffs. This gives it a “heavy” feeling in the throat and a lingering, savory, mineral finish that persists through many steepings.
Decoding the Grades
Rougui is primarily defined by its aroma type and its source rock.
1. Aroma Profiles
- Cinnamon (Rougui): The signature spicy, woody, and warm aroma.
- Floral/Fruit: High-quality Rougui often features notes of orchid, peach, or dried longan underneath the spice.
2. Roast Levels
- Medium Roast (Zhong Huo): The standard. Balanced spice and floral notes with a nutty depth.
- Heavy Roast (Zu Huo): Deeply chocolatey, smoky, and intense. This style is designed for aging and for those who enjoy the “fire” of the roast.
How to Identify Quality
A high-quality Rougui should be “Domineering” (Ba Qi) but balanced.
| Feature | High-Quality (Premium) | Lower-Quality (Mass Market) |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Tightly twisted, dark, sturdy leaves; uniform color. | Broken, loose, or grayish leaves with many stems. |
| Aroma | Sharp, warm cinnamon spice; “penetrating” fragrance that stays in the cup. | Faint, flat, or excessively smoky/burnt smelling. |
| Liquor | Clear, amber-orange; bright oily sheen (sign of high minerals). | Dull yellow or cloudy. |
| Taste | Bold spice, “Yan Yun” mineral depth, sweet aftertaste (Huigan). | Thin, watery, or harshly bitter/astringent. |
Reputable Brands & Where to Buy
Because of the “Rougui Craze,” there are many imitations. Look for vendors who specify the specific “Rock” (Yan) the tea comes from.
Reputable Specialized Brands:
- Wuyi Star (武夷星): A large, reliable producer with a wide range of Rougui grades.
- Xiang Cha: Excellent for traditionally roasted, core-area Yancha.
- International-Friendly Online Shops:
- Wuyi Origin: A farmer-direct shop based in Wuyishan with incredible transparency on “Rock” locations.
- Old Ways Tea: Specialists in Wuyi Yancha with direct family ties to the region.
- The Tea Hong: Highly curated, traditionally roasted oolongs with detailed tasting notes.
- Verdant Tea: Great for learning about the specific farmers and their roasting techniques.
Rougui is an “extrovert’s tea.” It is bold, spicy, and demands your attention. If you enjoy peppery, woody, and mineral-rich flavors, Rougui will be a revelation. For the best experience, brew it with boiling water in a small clay teapot or gaiwan.